zhongxinladder

    These rules specify when employers must
provide stairways and ladders. In general, the
standards require the following:
 When there is a break in elevation of 19 inches(48 cm) or more and no ramp, runway,embankment or personnel hoist is available,employers must provide a stairway or ladder at all worker points of access.

 When there is only one point of access between levels, employers must keep it clear of obstacles to permit free passage by workers.If free passage becomes restricted,employers must provide a second point of access and ensure that workers use it.

 When there are more than two points of access between levels, employers must ensure that at least one point of access remains clear.In addition, employers must install all stairway and ladder fall protection systems required by these rules and ensure that their worksite meets all requirements of the stairway and ladder rules before employees use stairways or ladders. See 29 CFR 1926.1050-1060 for the details of the standard.

Note: The standard does not apply to ladders specifically manufactured for scaffold access and egress, but does apply to job-made and manufactured portable ladders intended for general purpose use. Rules for ladders used on or with scaffolds are addressed in 29 CFR 1926.451 Subpart L.

*  First and foremost! Look for any electrical power lines and keep away from them.
          o Near where you are proposing to work.
          o Near where you are raising the ladder.
          o Near you if you have to carry the ladder in it's raised position say around a corner.
    * Make sure the ladder is in good condition.
    * One ladder, one person only on it at the same time. Don't get your mate to bring stuff up to you.
    * Always make sure that the ladder is on a firm base.
    * Make sure it is strong enough for the job.  Ladders have weight ratings on them.  I disobeyed this simple rule once on a step ladder.  I was lifting up a 9" x 3" hardwood beam, and the back frame of the Aluminum step ladder collapsed under me.  No warning.  The beam nearly took my ear off.  (I could have spent the rest of my life looking like Vincent Van Gogh :-)
    * Always have the ladder at least three rungs or say 1 meter higher than the roof edge, to give you support as you step on and off.
    * Never step on any of those higher rungs though, use the one lower than the edge to get onto and off the roof.
    * If you are working on a wall, keep the top three rungs for your hand grip, don't stand on them, get a longer ladder if you can't reach.
    * For extension ladders use the manufacturer's recommendations for minimum lap. Personally I hate to see ladders stretched out to their maximum.  I always go for extra strength that more lap gives.  If your ladder is not long enough, NEVER EXTEND IT PAST THE RECOMMENDED LAP! Go out and hire a longer one.
    * Don't over stretch out on a too short ladder. It is dangerous and apart from that it is not efficient.  If you are drilling, you want to be pushing at just about chest height, not stretching above your head.  Simple logic. 
    * When I was into sailing an old saying was "one hand for the boat and one hand for yourself". The same thing applys to ladders also, always have three points of contact with the ladder, two feet plus one hand, or if stepping off the ladder onto the roof two hands and one foot.
    * The ladder can be roped at the top and bottom if nescessary, but tie the ropes to the sides and not the rungs.
    * On sloping ground don't just pack up one leg with something. This is dangerous as the spring of the ladder can move it off the packer.
    * Make a definate provision for a solid base by either leveing the ground and providing a sole plate or if on sloping concrete provide a decent sized piece of ply to rest a leg on, then secure the base with ropes.

foot of a ladder
ladders - Swivel the bottom of the ladder fittings inwards and then bounce on the bottom rung to dig them into the ground.
top of ladder secured to a gutter with multigrips
ladders - Top of ladder clipped to a gutter with multigrips.  I should have put a rag or something inbetween to stop the ladder marking the gutter.  Naughty!

    * On firm ground like the lawn on the right, flip the base pieces to the inside of the ladder and jump on the bottom rung a couple of times to dig the pointy bits in. If the ground is softer provide a good sized timber sole plate.
    * If the top feels a bit insecure I have also partly unscrewed a couple of roof screws, used tie wire to fix the top of the ladder to them and then screwed them down again.
    * The photo shows an occaision where I clipped the top of the ladder to the gutter using multigrips to stop it sliding as I was carrying tools onto the roof.
    * Never put anything at the bottom that can cause you to trip as you get off the ladder.  I have seen a couple of star pickets used for holding the bottom rung.  More danger of stepping on them than what they are trying to stop.
    * Don't tread mud and crap onto the rungs, (and then onto the roof too).  Clean your feet first.
    * There is a term called "walking a ladder". This does not refer to carrying the ladder vertically from one place to another but it means that when on the top of the ladder you wrigle it sideways to extend your reach (say when painting gutters). DON'T DO IT! sooner or later you will reach a point of no return. In addition you put all the weight on one leg of the ladder which could cause other problems.

from:builderbill-diy-help